Visiting The People’s Republic of Cork

The first thing you notice about Corkonians is that they have a fierce pride in their city, which they’ve nicknamed “The People’s Republic of Cork.” And they should be proud of Cork; it manages to have a smalltown, friendly feel while offering many things that a large city should, including a lively arts scene and quite a few great restaurants. You can take in the major attractions in the city itself in a day or two, but Cork City also makes a great urban base for visiting the surrounding areas. East County Cork, home to popular attractions such as the Fota Wildlife Park, the Blarney Stone and Castle, and the sweet seaside town of Cobh, is easily accessible from Cork City. The easiest solution to visit all this is to rent a car in Cork.

Gaol

The history of Cork City’s old jail (gaol is pronounced as jail), operational from 1824 to 1923, is brought to life with wax figures of the prisoners who occupied the cells here. You still can see the graffiti on the walls of many of the cells, and an interesting audio tour gives you the background stories for many of the prisoners portrayed here, from those who were relocated to Australia to those who fought for the establishment of an independent Republic of Ireland. This is one of those attractions that achieves a great combination of fun and education.

Crawford Art Gallery

The engaging Crawford Art Gallery displays a broad array of art, and hosts intriguing and varied temporary exhibits — the recent Art in an Age of Anxiety: Terror and the Sublime exhibit featured works from the late 18th century through the present that explore fears in the face of political upheavals. Highlights of the museum include an extensive collection of classical Greek and Roman sculpture casts, and many 19th- and 20th-century Irish paintings and drawings, including some gems by Jack B. Yeats. Make time for lunch or a snack in the first-rate cafe. Art fans should also check out the Lewis Glucksman Gallery at University College Cork. In addition, those interested in seeing works by eminent and emerging Cork artists may want to visit the Cork Opera House.

English Market

This bustling, stone-floored indoor market, dating from 1788, is one of the best in Ireland. The market was damaged by fire in 1986, but it has been beautifully restored, featuring the original fountain, columns, and castiron railings. All sorts of meat, vegetables, fruits, sweets, breads, and prepared foods are sold here, and the market is famous for its alley full of sparkling fresh fish. Here’s a suggested shopping list for a gourmet picnic: First, fortify yourself with a cup of rich hot chocolate from the Chocolate Shop; then pick up some cured meats and Irish cheeses from On the Pig’s Back, a loaf of your choice from Alternative Bread Co., and some sushi or dried fish from Kay O’Connell’s; finally, grab a bottle of wine from Bubble Brothers or a French soda from Café An Raith. The University College Cork campus, on Western Road, is a gorgeous spot to enjoy your picnic, as is Bishop Lucey Park, a little green park at Grand Parade. If the weather gods are not cooperating with your picnic plans, the Farmgate Café (reviewed in the “Dining in Cork City and East County Cork” section, earlier in this chapter) is the next-best thing.

St. Anne’s Church (Shandon Church)

You know those church bells that ring out over so many Irish towns and cities? Well, here’s your chance to play them in one of Cork City’s most beloved churches. Enter the church and take a look around the chapel, where you’ll find a christening font from 1629 and a small collection of old books (my favorite is the Irish-language bible). Then take the stairs up to the first floor, where you can play the eight bells for all to hear. There are several song cards that tell you how to play various songs on the bells, or you can adapt your own favorites. A tip: To make the bells easier to ring, pull the ropes out toward you rather than straight down. After you’ve finished your debut concert, take the spiral staircase up to see the clockworks and the bells themselves. At the end of the spiral staircase, don the hearing protection and take the short, steep staircase out of the belfry and onto the outside terrace of the bell tower for a lovely view of Cork City. When you exit the church, check out the four-sided clock tower. Each side of the tower has a clock and, until the mid-1980s, each clock read a slightly different time, prompting Corkonians to refer to the clock tower as “The Four-Faced Liar.”

St. Fin Barre’s Cathedral

This cathedral was built on the site of a monastery and university created by St. Fin Barre, Cork City’s founder, around a.d. 650. Interesting highlights of the cruciform (cross-shaped) cathedral include the one-of-a-kind underground church organ, zodiac symbols on the stained glass, and gilded ceilings. You’ll get more out of your visit to this French Gothic–style Anglican cathedral if you take the short informative tour. From September through June, the girls and boys choirs can be heard at 10:15 a.m. and 6 p.m. Sunday services.

University College Cork: Ogham Stones and the Lewis Glucksman Gallery

The University College Cork campus itself, with lush green lawns and gothic-style buildings, would be reason enough to visit. In the Stone Corridor, you can step back about 1,500 years to take in the collection of Ogham stones. The inscriptions on these stones, which are thought to be burial markers, bear the earliest examples of the written language that gave rise to modern Irish Gaelic and the oldest recordings of Irish clan names. Don’t miss the computer program that allows you to see what your name would look like in Ogham. Now catapult back to the present to visit the Glucksman Gallery, a contemporary art gallery that mounts diverse, thoughtfully curated exhibitions. You may find anything from a sound and visual art installation focusing on Irish traditional music to an exploration of childhood as portrayed in contemporary photography.